Open Canoe Rafting - Why? & How

Every open canoe adventurer and coach inevitably ends up making improvised rafts at certain times. Through my own experience I have often observed canoeists making rafts which make the hairs stand up on the back of my neck! Open canoeing is becoming more popular in this country both as a sport and also as an activity taught in many outdoor centres - making rafts is something which is often tacked on to the end of a course and rarely covered in depth. The following thoughts and ideas are taken from my own experience and also from a number of other experienced canoeists. I do hope that you will find these helpful but remember any raft is improvised and therefore needs continual observation and all rafts have limitations. Personal practice in construction is essential, don’t just take my word for it - a badly constructed raft can be more dangerous than not making a raft at all!

1. Why Raft?

The Canoe was to American Indian the Landrover or JCB of our modern world. It was their work horse and often their life line. They rafted canoes to cross the Great Lakes and to enable them to carry heavy loads - and this was taken up later by the fur traders rafting down enormous rivers and across the lakes transporting a tremendously heavy cargo of precious animal fur skins.

Today we make rafts for all sorts of reasons - underlying them rafting enables the wise coach to maintain control in many different situations.

1.1. Security

It can make a short journey more realistic with young children
If someone is suffering from injury or fatigue it still offers a way to continue
In cold weather it avoids the possibility of capsizing and hypothermia
It offers a temporary solution if a canoe has been damaged
It offers a good introduction to canoeing for physically disabled people

1.2. Rough Weather

Increases confidence
Creates stability
Control of potential risk

1.3. Sailing

Stable
Fun
Fast and effective
Social

1.4 Capacity

Increases carrying or load / weight capacity

2. Raft Construction

Rafting sometimes happens as a planned activity. If it is a planned activity there is no excuse for dangerous and poorly constructed rafts. At other times a coach may choose to raft because in his or her judgement it is the safest option. Even with limited equipment and totally improvised we have options some reasonably safe others potentially very hazardous.

2.1. The “classic” raft

The strongest type of raft. It is very ridged and fights against waves, tending to take on board a lot of water - especially when going across the waves.

strong construction
fast to paddle
takes time to build
best built ashore
two beams makes paddling a little cumbersome
needs lots of kit

2.2. The improved “classic” raft

In my opinion the most seaworthy construction. Slightly weaker than the classic but because the canoes pivot around the pole the forces upon the raft are much less. This is the driest raft and least likely to swamp and therefore the safest.

Canoes pivot independently
1 pole needed
quicker to build
fast through the water
easier built ashore
only 1 pole to interfere with paddle strokes

2.3. The “diamond” raft

Good for short distances and can easily be built on the water. Probably the best emergency raft.

Requires very little equipment
Any number of canoes can be rafted in this fashion as long as the principal is followed
Fairly slow to paddle
Has no “open mouths” in which to collect water
Paddling restricted to outer sides only
It is essential that the bows are pulled in tightly towards the centre

2.4. The Cockleshell raft

A quick emergency raft. Poor construction can be very serious. It is essential that a line is passed from the outer gunnel of one canoe, under the raft and up to the gunnel of the other canoe. Failure to do this could result in the shell closing trapping you inside - it has happened!!

Easily constructed afloat
Needs very little equipment
Slow to paddle
Will swamp easily in rough weather

3. Safety Issues

A raft is improvised and needs constant close examination

3.1. Swamping

Rafts can and do swamp. The two most common reasons are a) not enough space between the canoes and b) surfing down waves and ploughing into the next wave. This has often happened when sailing rafted canoes and is potentially very hazardous. The sail should have been taken down long before and if necessary measures taken to slow the raft speed down. If your raft does swamp it is essential to empty the water as soon as possible. If you can still paddle the raft aim for the nearest shoreline and bail as quickly as possible with bailers, paddles or a stirrup pump. If you have so much water in the raft that paddling becomes impossible then either bail furiously or alternately rock the raft for and aft to swill great quantities of water out quickly. This is effective but please do practise this before you have to use it! Adequate large bailers should always be carried or a useful alternative is a stirrup pump.

3.2. Man over board

Stopping a raft and regaining ground with an inexperienced crew is virtually impossible in a strong breeze. Using throw bags or a sea anchor offers a possible solution. These are only as good as the people using them and practice in their use is essential.

3.3. Capsized

To my knowledge this has only happened when canoes have been pitchpoled (a forward loop). It can happen in an extreme case of surfing too fast and ploughing into the next wave. As the bow of the canoe enters the next wave it becomes swamped and heavy. The stern is still travelling fast and is light. It is lifted up and looped forwards resulting in the raft being totally inverted. This is an extremely serious situation and only practice, knowledge and a certain amount of luck will enable you to right the raft. The technique is similar to righting a river raft but success depends upon the amount of buoyancy in the canoe. Standard air bags fully inflated do not sink low enough whilst to little air in the bags and you sink too much....... If you work in canoes regularly do practice this with other experienced canoeists BUT it is a situation, which in my opinion should NEVER arise.

3.4. More than one raft

The coach should think carefully about the quantity of rafts. If it is at all windy an experienced paddler in each raft is essential. Keeping close together can be difficult and communication can cause problems. Remember if you are the raft in front could you stop or go back to help another crew? – Keep on top of the situation and don’t let the excitement of a fast sail cloud your judgement!

3.5. Trim

The trim of rafted canoes is important. Many canoeists end up rafting because the conditions become too difficult for canoes on their own. If you are rafting in windy conditions make sure you have practised trimming a canoe on its own in varied conditions. A well trimmed canoe or raft is much safer, faster and more enjoyable to paddle. Remember your trim may need changed regularly - particularly if you start sailing.

3.6. Team control

Be aware of every person on the raft. Children love to trail feet in the water. Have you ever stuck a paddle into the water forwards of the central beam when the raft is cruising along? If you haven’t try it next time you are out and then imagine what would happen to a persons knee joint exposed to such forces.....

3.7. Towing an empty canoe

It is often a wise decision to tow an empty canoe behind. In the event of any serious mishap - swamping, man over board, capsize - you still have a canoe floating which will be very useful in controlling the situation. The empty canoe isn’t just taken for a ride as a spare. Once a decision has been made to raft then six people could easily travel in one raft and hence you have a spare boat anyway! Make sure you practice towing a spare canoe - how long do you want your tow line and what about the trim?

3.8. Raft Construction

Be practised, quick, simple and safe.

4. Key points

4.1. Raft Shape

All rafts should be slightly arrow shaped, narrower at the bow. If the bow of the raft is wider than the stern, not only will it be harder and slower to paddle but more seriously your chances of swamping will greatly increase.

4.2. The Gap

If you are constructing either the classic or the improved classic then it is essential to have at least a canoes width gap between the canoes. If the gap is to narrow and you are sailing or surfing along then you are likely to see a flume of water growing between the canoes. This is a warning sign - if it gets to big than you could swamp the raft very quickly.

4.3. Straps and lashings

For fastening beams to the thwarts I use shortened roofrack straps. These are not only very strong, they are also quick to use. Whether you use straps or rope the beams do need to be tight. The thwart should flex towards the beam - if it doesn’t try making the ropes tighter. If you have any movement between the beams and the thwarts before you start then you can be expecting problems later on!

4.4. Poles

Poles as described in this document for making rafts are not the same as those used for poling a canoe. Poles for rafting should be strong beams of wood at least 3 inches thick. If you are rafting regularly with groups make yourself some specific rafting poles and get together a kit of all the straps and string you need to make a safe, effective raft. The length is important and you should allow for about 3 feet between the canoes at the centre thwart.

Finally all of these are suggestions which have been tried and tested and in my opinion lead to safer rafting. Remember everything mentioned in this document is based on the word ‘improvised’ and should not be relied upon totally. Everything also requires practice so enough reading.. lets get out there!

© Ian Ray Asp. Level 5 coach - Jan. 1999.

	Open Canoe Rafting - Why? & How Every open canoe adventurer and coach inevitably ends up making improvised rafts at certain times. Through my own experience I have often observed canoeists making rafts which make the hairs stand up on the back of my neck! Open canoeing is becoming more popular in this country both as a sport and also as an activity taught in many outdoor centres - making rafts is something which is often tacked on to the end of a course and rarely covered in depth. The following thoughts and ideas are taken from my own experience and also from a number of other experienced canoeists. I do hope that you will find these helpful but remember any raft is improvised and therefore needs continual observation and all rafts have limitations. Personal practice in construction is essential, don’t just take my word for it - a badly constructed raft can be more dangerous than not making a raft at all! 1. Why Raft? The Canoe was to American Indian the Landrover or JCB of our modern world. It was their work horse and often their life line. They rafted canoes to cross the Great Lakes and to enable them to carry heavy loads - and this was taken up later by the fur traders rafting down enormous rivers and across the lakes transporting a tremendously heavy cargo of precious animal fur skins. Today we make rafts for all sorts of reasons - underlying them rafting enables the wise coach to maintain control in many different situations. 1.1. Security It can make a short journey more realistic with young children If someone is suffering from injury or fatigue it still offers a way to continue In cold weather it avoids the possibility of capsizing and hypothermia It offers a temporary solution if a canoe has been damaged It offers a good introduction to canoeing for physically disabled people 1.2. Rough Weather Increases confidence Creates stability Control of potential risk 1.3. Sailing Stable Fun Fast and effective Social 1.4 Capacity Increases carrying or load / weight capacity 2. Raft Construction Rafting sometimes happens as a planned activity. If it is a planned activity there is no excuse for dangerous and poorly constructed rafts. At other times a coach may choose to raft because in his or her judgement it is the safest option. Even with limited equipment and totally improvised we have options some reasonably safe others potentially very hazardous. 2.1. The “classic” raft The strongest type of raft. It is very ridged and fights against waves, tending to take on board a lot of water - especially when going across the waves. strong construction fast to paddle takes time to build best built ashore two beams makes paddling a little cumbersome needs lots of kit 2.2. The improved “classic” raft In my opinion the most seaworthy construction. Slightly weaker than the classic but because the canoes pivot around the pole the forces upon the raft are much less. This is the driest raft and least likely to swamp and therefore the safest. Canoes pivot independently 1 pole needed quicker to build fast through the water easier built ashore only 1 pole to interfere with paddle strokes 2.3. The “diamond” raft Good for short distances and can easily be built on the water. Probably the best emergency raft. Requires very little equipment Any number of canoes can be rafted in this fashion as long as the principal is followed Fairly slow to paddle Has no “open mouths” in which to collect water Paddling restricted to outer sides only It is essential that the bows are pulled in tightly towards the centre 2.4. The Cockleshell raft A quick emergency raft. Poor construction can be very serious. It is essential that a line is passed from the outer gunnel of one canoe, under the raft and up to the gunnel of the other canoe. Failure to do this could result in the shell closing trapping you inside - it has happened!! Easily constructed afloat Needs very little equipment Slow to paddle Will swamp easily in rough weather 3. Safety Issues A raft is improvised and needs constant close examination 3.1. Swamping Rafts can and do swamp. The two most common reasons are a) not enough space between the canoes and b) surfing down waves and ploughing into the next wave. This has often happened when sailing rafted canoes and is potentially very hazardous. The sail should have been taken down long before and if necessary measures taken to slow the raft speed down. If your raft does swamp it is essential to empty the water as soon as possible. If you can still paddle the raft aim for the nearest shoreline and bail as quickly as possible with bailers, paddles or a stirrup pump. If you have so much water in the raft that paddling becomes impossible then either bail furiously or alternately rock the raft for and aft to swill great quantities of water out quickly. This is effective but please do practise this before you have to use it! Adequate large bailers should always be carried or a useful alternative is a stirrup pump. 3.2. Man over board Stopping a raft and regaining ground with an inexperienced crew is virtually impossible in a strong breeze. Using throw bags or a sea anchor offers a possible solution. These are only as good as the people using them and practice in their use is essential. 3.3. Capsized To my knowledge this has only happened when canoes have been pitchpoled (a forward loop). It can happen in an extreme case of surfing too fast and ploughing into the next wave. As the bow of the canoe enters the next wave it becomes swamped and heavy. The stern is still travelling fast and is light. It is lifted up and looped forwards resulting in the raft being totally inverted. This is an extremely serious situation and only practice, knowledge and a certain amount of luck will enable you to right the raft. The technique is similar to righting a river raft but success depends upon the amount of buoyancy in the canoe. Standard air bags fully inflated do not sink low enough whilst to little air in the bags and you sink too much....... If you work in canoes regularly do practice this with other experienced canoeists BUT it is a situation, which in my opinion should NEVER arise. 3.4. More than one raft The coach should think carefully about the quantity of rafts. If it is at all windy an experienced paddler in each raft is essential. Keeping close together can be difficult and communication can cause problems. Remember if you are the raft in front could you stop or go back to help another crew? – Keep on top of the situation and don’t let the excitement of a fast sail cloud your judgement! 3.5. Trim The trim of rafted canoes is important. Many canoeists end up rafting because the conditions become too difficult for canoes on their own. If you are rafting in windy conditions make sure you have practised trimming a canoe on its own in varied conditions. A well trimmed canoe or raft is much safer, faster and more enjoyable to paddle. Remember your trim may need changed regularly - particularly if you start sailing. 3.6. Team control Be aware of every person on the raft. Children love to trail feet in the water. Have you ever stuck a paddle into the water forwards of the central beam when the raft is cruising along? If you haven’t try it next time you are out and then imagine what would happen to a persons knee joint exposed to such forces..... 3.7. Towing an empty canoe It is often a wise decision to tow an empty canoe behind. In the event of any serious mishap - swamping, man over board, capsize - you still have a canoe floating which will be very useful in controlling the situation. The empty canoe isn’t just taken for a ride as a spare. Once a decision has been made to raft then six people could easily travel in one raft and hence you have a spare boat anyway! Make sure you practice towing a spare canoe - how long do you want your tow line and what about the trim? 3.8. Raft Construction Be practised, quick, simple and safe. 4. Key points 4.1. Raft Shape All rafts should be slightly arrow shaped, narrower at the bow. If the bow of the raft is wider than the stern, not only will it be harder and slower to paddle but more seriously your chances of swamping will greatly increase. 4.2. The Gap If you are constructing either the classic or the improved classic then it is essential to have at least a canoes width gap between the canoes. If the gap is to narrow and you are sailing or surfing along then you are likely to see a flume of water growing between the canoes. This is a warning sign - if it gets to big than you could swamp the raft very quickly. 4.3. Straps and lashings For fastening beams to the thwarts I use shortened roofrack straps. These are not only very strong, they are also quick to use. Whether you use straps or rope the beams do need to be tight. The thwart should flex towards the beam - if it doesn’t try making the ropes tighter. If you have any movement between the beams and the thwarts before you start then you can be expecting problems later on! 4.4. Poles Poles as described in this document for making rafts are not the same as those used for poling a canoe. Poles for rafting should be strong beams of wood at least 3 inches thick. If you are rafting regularly with groups make yourself some specific rafting poles and get together a kit of all the straps and string you need to make a safe, effective raft. The length is important and you should allow for about 3 feet between the canoes at the centre thwart. Finally all of these are suggestions which have been tried and tested and in my opinion lead to safer rafting. Remember everything mentioned in this document is based on the word ‘improvised’ and should not be relied upon totally. Everything also requires practice so enough reading.. lets get out there! © Ian Ray Asp. Level 5 coach - Jan. 1999.